The Sneaky Rogue
From magical head helmets (AKA “hats”) to sock garters, I outfit myself like a gothic time traveler
Pictured: Kelsey in her practical goth garb, wearing a sun-protecting black hat, a breezy black peasant blouse, and a belt with a pouch for her necessities. She stands on a porch in a lush green landscape, near a bird feeder.
Submitted by Kelsey Wolf
Instagram
How did you acquire this outfit? From an Etsy shop that makes medieval-style clothing. While I do have thrifted and vintage pieces I love, a significant portion of my wardrobe isn’t secondhand. I have quite a few handmade pieces from small businesses and individual sewists. While I’m proud to support small businesses, there is sometimes a lack of transparency on how much workers make, what the working conditions are like, and how the raw materials were sourced and produced. In fact, I’ve seen quite a few goth style makers on Instagram using and promoting “vegan” leather, aka plastic, with no awareness of how it is made and no concerns about its longevity. And we know by now that even using plastic-free fabric like cotton isn’t automatically an ethical or environmentally-friendly option.
I don’t want to trash small businesses and individual makers. I love supporting their creative endeavors. But I want to support ethically-made clothing. There are amazing sewists who use second-hand materials, and I hope that approach continues to grow. But while I appreciate their style, it is often not the haunted Victorian vibe I’m into. For now I’m spending my money on spooky vintage clothing and trying to buy fewer new pieces from small businesses who aren’t clear on their process, from the fields of flax to the finished blouse. Most importantly, I plan to wear all the clothing in my closet, new or not, for as long as I can.
I’ve stopped buying clothes that don’t have pockets. Some of my past purchases are sadly lacking in that department. My solution: I wear a favorite belt with a pouch. It brings me joy because I hate carrying bags and I need my hands free to pet cats and pick up interesting rocks! This pouch makes me feel like I’m on a Dungeons & Dragons adventure even when I’m just buying tofu at the grocery store.
Second-hand pieces in this look: shoes
Everything else is from a small business, minus the tights.
Why is this your favorite go-to outfit? The importance of a simple but beloved blouse cannot be overestimated. I reach for this one all the time because:
• I love a sleeve with some drama (billowy arms, gathered at the cuffs)
• It’s breathable (linen), loose and comfy
• It makes me feel like a sneaky rogue
• Dangly sleeve strings double as an emergency cat toy
When I stick with one color and dress in layers, people don’t notice if I rewear pieces! As long as I am not visibly unwashed or smelly, why does it matter?
It’s been delightfully cool recently, so I’m wearing this top as much as possible before it becomes too hot to do so. I’m referring to the dreadful and impending doom that is summer, AKA The Devil’s Ass Crack.
Any other comments? Here are two more outfits that represent my sense of style, which evolved as I started to think about the ethics of my wardrobe and the downside of buying too heavily into the Lolita fashion subculture. They also incorporate the same billowy-sleeved peasant blouse featured above!
Pictured: Kelsey dressed like a Victorian doll, wearing a black ruffled dress with an embroidered bodice, lace gloves, lace tights, a sheer bolero and a black bonnet. Her black peasant blouse is worn under the sleeveless dress. She stands on a lawn surrounded by trees.
For much of my life I’ve been the same weight. But in the past six years, I’ve been gaining weight and it is difficult to accept. It also means my old EGL (Elegant Gothic Lolita) dresses no longer fit. Many Lolita brands cater to smaller sizes, and I’ve never had a small waist. Even at my thinnest, I was at the upper end of typical Lolita waist sizing. During the years I was really into EGL, I grew to be very ashamed of my stomach size. It was a time when I really hated my body and was obsessed with consuming “brand” and expanding my Lolita wardrobe. It was detrimental to both my wallet and mental health.
But I do miss the fluffy, over-the-top looks sometimes. There are makers who cater to a larger range of sizes, but I am very picky about what styles I like within EGL fashion. I don’t wear printed fabrics (outside of floral), which are still used in the majority of EGL clothes. But! I am very happy to have found some makers who sew a more inclusive range of sizes in styles I adore. This jumperskirt (a dress without sleeves) is one of those pieces. The bodice looks like Grandma’s couch, the skirt is so ruffly, and it has pockets! It feels great to be very baroque once again while (mostly) avoiding the pitfalls of the Lolita subculture.
Second-hand pieces in this look: gloves, shoes
Everything else is from a small business, minus the tights.
Pictured: Kelsey’s casual look incorporates the black peasant blouse shown in the first outfit, this time paired with a long cardigan, shorts, suspenders, socks with garters, lace-up shoes, and an Edwardian straw boater hat. She is posed on a patio, leaning against a brick planter box.
This is my 19th century casual queer look. I feel especially bi when I wear button suspenders and sock garters! Plus these shorts show off my legs, which, although you can’t tell from the photo, I don’t shave. All these aspects feel more traditionally masculine and slightly subversive to me.
I also adore headwear and think it is under-appreciated in modern times. Wearing hats or bonnets regularly has helped me feel less anxious about the recent lifting of mask mandates. I’m pretty insecure about my face shape and chin. While wearing masks, I became more comfortable, protected by that extra layer of fabric and the sense of being perceived less. I like to wear ridiculous, eye-catching outfits, but I don’t enjoy being seen. Hats feel like a magical helmet I can wear to claim some space around my face.
Second-hand pieces in this look: hat, shorts, shoes.
Everything else is from a small business, minus the socks and garters.
This post was a good exercise for me as I hate being photographed and I am very awkward in photos. At the same time, I enjoy showing off my style and I’ve been wanting to take more outfit shots as a way to positively accept the reality of my appearance.
Kelsey, thank you so much for sharing these imaginatively layered outfits and telling us about your personal style journey. Each of these outfits evokes a different character and adventure while also addressing the practical considerations of your daily life. Your style deserves an audience, but, more importantly, we hope that you continue to document your outfits as a means of appreciating your own appearance. Your process of addressing the creative, practical, ethical, and emotional dimensions of getting dressed is truly inspiring!
Do you have a favorite outfit that makes you feel totally rad? Show us and tell us all about it. Strike a pose and interrupt conventional internet traffic with your awesome duds HERE.
Editor: Karrie Witkin | Designer: Kelsey Wolf | Photographer: John Kij | Communication/Support/Outreach: Meg Chellew & Elise Nye
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