DIY Sanitary Pads

Make your own sustainable menstrual products, like women have done for decades!

Pictured: Utilitarian, sustainable, and fun! Two of Hannah’s knitted sanitary pads, knitted in two contrasting colored yarns (purple and red on the left; turquoise and white on the right).

Pictured: Utilitarian, sustainable, and fun! Two of Hannah’s knitted sanitary pads, knitted in two contrasting colored yarns (purple and red on the left; turquoise and white on the right).

By Hannah Connover-Arthurs
Instagram

There are some things that people always get squirmy about and one of those things is menstrual cycles! If you don't like talking about periods, this post is not for you. BUT if you do enjoy a good cycle, please read on! As a person who menstruates I decided a couple years ago that it was time to make the switch to a menstrual cup. I'm going to be honest that they are not for everyone. If you tend to get grossed out by blood, I wouldn't recommend them, but if you are ready to take a more sustainable approach to your monthly cycle then a menstrual cup may be the way to go!

I was happily using my DivaCup, but I was still experiencing tricky leaks that left me mortified and covered in my own blood. I decided enough was enough. There had to be a better way to keep my periods low-waste but not get blood everywhere. That is when it dawned on me — how did women in the past survive all those decades without disposable tampons? They made their own pads! 

What a simple yet radical idea! Once I decided to make a pad, I got my knitting needles out and started making a basic rectangle shape with two flaps for wings and a couple plastic snaps to hold it in place. The pad wasn't particularly groundbreaking, but it changed my previously wasteful menstruating experience. I no longer needed to rely on one-time use disposable tampons and pads. These items often end up clogging our sewers, contributing to the plastic waste in the ocean, and sitting in landfills. It makes me wonder how many sanitary items I've tossed into the trash over the course of my life so far. 

I slowly started knitting a collection of pads for myself and my friends, realizing that I could never have enough pads. Every time that time of the month rolls around, I've got an arsenal of protection to choose from. Then I wash, rinse, and repeat. It's that simple. I can happily say I have not bought any menstrual products in over two years! This is a great accomplishment and one I rarely get to share with people, but I understand that knit pads are not everyone's cup of tea!

So for the sake of sustainable cycles, I have provided a pattern for a simple knit pad that you can use on its own or in combination with a menstrual cup. This pad uses an old sock as the internal padding. Depending on what size you want it to be, you can use a thicker or thinner sock. Also depending on the width or length you are going for you can adjust the amount of stitches you start with and how long you want to make your custom pad. Just go with the flow ; )

HCA_diypads_2.jpg

Pad Pattern

You will need:

2 balls of thin 100% cotton or 100% wool yarn (Remember wool will shrink, but it is also very absorbent. Make the pad larger to compensate for shrinkage.)

3.5mm (US 4) needles

Darning needle

2-3 small snaps/ buttons

Thin sewing needle

Thread


Legend

C1=Color 1

C2=Color 2

RS=Right side

WS=Wrong side

sts=Stitch

K=Knit

P=Purl

The sizes are as follows: S (M, L)


To make the body of the pad:

1. Using 3.5mm (US 4) needles with yarn (C1), cast on 30 (34, 36)

2. Using stocking sts K row 1, P row 2, K row 3, P row 4

3. Row 5 on RS switch to C2, K row 5, P row 6

4. Row 7 switch to C1, K row 7, P row 8

5. Repeat step 3 and 4 to create a stripe pattern. Keep working in the stripe pattern until the pad is 8 inches long.

6. Cast off


To make the pad’s flaps:

7. Cast on 30 sts with C1 on 3.5mm needles

8. K rows 1 and 2

9. K 2 sts together at beginning and end of row 3 until 28 sts across. Keep knitting together 2 sts at the beginning and end of each row until the flap is 14 sts across.

10. K 4 rows until you reach 14 sts

11. Cast off.

12. Repeat steps 7-11 for the second flap.

Pictured: Body of pad on right side with 2 flaps detached.

Pictured: Body of pad on right side with 2 flaps detached.

To assemble the pieces:

13. With darning needle sew up the body of the pad length wise on WS using C1.

14. Use an old sock and cut it to the same length as your pad. This will act as the padding in the pad. Depending on the thickness you are aiming for, use a thicker or thinner sock.

Pictured: Sew up the edge of the pad on the wrong side with a darning needle using color 1. Cut an old sock to length for center padding.

Pictured: Sew up the edge of the pad on the wrong side with a darning needle using color 1. Cut an old sock to length for center padding.

15. Turn pad RS out and sew up the top and bottom of pad making sure to sew the sock in place in between the two layers of the pad

Pictured: Sew up the top of the pad on the right side with the sock positioned in the center of the pad. Make sure to sew through the sock to secure it to the pad.

Pictured: Sew up the top of the pad on the right side with the sock positioned in the center of the pad. Make sure to sew through the sock to secure it to the pad.

16. Secure the padding by sewing some stitches with a darning needle through the center of the sock. Feel free to have fun with design. You can use color 1 or 2.

Pictured: Diamond pattern of stitches using color 1 and 2 securing the inside padding to the pad.

Pictured: Diamond pattern of stitches using color 1 and 2 securing the inside padding to the pad.

17. Sew on flaps with a darning needle along the length of each side of the pad using color 1.

18. Sew on 2 or 3 small buttons or snaps onto the pad flaps using thread and thin sewing needle.

Pictured: Finished pad with the snaps attached (unsnapped). Note that the ball side of the snap is sewn on the outside of the flap and that the socket side of the snap is sewn on the inside of the opposite flap.

Pictured: Finished pad with the snaps attached (unsnapped). Note that the ball side of the snap is sewn on the outside of the flap and that the socket side of the snap is sewn on the inside of the opposite flap.

Pictured: Finished pad closed with the snaps attached

Pictured: Finished pad closed with the snaps attached

Editor: Anna Hou | Designer: Emma Geddes | Copy Editor: Katie Frankowicz | Communication/Support/Outreach: Meg Chellew

 

Want to contribute to the blog?


Keep Reading

Previous
Previous

Shopping in Grief

Next
Next

Un-styling Myself