Thrifting Tips
What you need to know before going to a thrift store
Pictured: Alex standing in a thrift store with racks of color-organized clothing, wearing a green vintage dress, sneakers, a fanny pack, and a mask, with a cart loaded to the top with garments.
By Alex Stevens, of Wear St. Evens
Instagram
Thrifting is great for so many reasons: there are truly amazing and unique items to be found in thrift stores, and it’s so much better for our planet than buying new. We are all fighting against a severe overabundance of clothing, and buying secondhand is a great way to reduce waste and divert your hard-earned funds away from companies that are overproducing new garments. Thrifting isn’t a contest or a competition: there’s more than enough for everyone! In fact, a large portion of donated items end up in a landfill if they aren’t sold within a certain window of time. For every item you purchase, there are hundreds more ready to take its place on the rack. Don’t buy something you don’t want or need just because it’s a good deal, but do consider if there is a secondhand alternative for something you were planning on buying new.
Before You Go:
Give yourself time. Thrift when you’re feeling patient and enthusiastic. Finding good stuff means looking through a lot of bad stuff, and finding gems takes time. Give yourself time to move things around and dig in piles and bins. You’re a lot more likely to leave unsatisfied when you’re rushing, and disappointing trips can discourage you from going again. Don’t forget to pee before you go!
Think about what you’re looking for. I keep a running note of items I’m on the hunt for in my phone. I add to the note when I’m getting dressed and think of something I’m missing, when I see someone wearing something I’m inspired by, or when I see something new that I know I can find second-hand. Currently on my list: denim overalls, a spoon rest, short sleeve button-ups in silk or rayon, and a bedside table under 18” wide. This helps me remember to check certain areas of the store that I might have otherwise skipped over. If you have a tendency to buy too much stuff, you can also make a note of the things you already have and definitely don’t need more of and intentionally avoid those parts of the store.
Dress the part. The “part” being comfortable! Complicated shoes and layers make it more difficult to try things on. Many thrift stores don’t have fitting rooms, or restrict entry to fitting rooms due to COVID. Slip-on shoes and slim fitting garments such as leggings can allow you to try things over your clothing in open areas if it seems safe and appropriate.
Be prepared. If necessary, prepare yourself to see or touch things that could be triggering. Thrift stores stock primarily used items that come from all kinds of people, and that can sometimes include things that feature offensive images. It isn’t uncommon to find suspicious stains or unpleasant items left behind in pockets (used tissues are more common than you’d hope). Dust, dander, and other irritants can cause reactions in those with serious allergies.
Bring hand sanitizer, cash, a tape measure, and your own bags. Many thrift stores are cash only. Coming prepared will help you dodge hefty ATM fees, and, more importantly, you’ll never have to abandon a good find. Bringing a tape measure or garment tape is especially smart if you’re on the hunt for home goods with certain dimensions, and can also help with sizing if you aren’t able to try something on. Most thrift stores only offer single-use plastic bags, which are not only environmentally damaging but are also not ideal for carrying heavy items, or anything pointy like a heel or a belt buckle.
HOT TIP: Measure your hands and feet right now! If you forget your tape measure, you’ve got estimates you can use. Walk alongside furniture toe-to-heel to get a rough idea of length, or use your hands to get a ballpark waist size on a pair of pants.
When You’re in the Store:
Be mindful and respectful. Whether or not you’re shopping in a pandemic, you should always follow the store rules and policies. A dirty or disorganized store is not a pass for you to add to the mess. Put things back nicely, take five seconds to fix something if it slips off the hanger, and treat employees and fellow shoppers with respect and kindness! If you’re trying things on, be careful to avoid letting your makeup, deodorant, or lotion transfer to a garment. Many retailers will immediately discard garments for these reasons — don’t accidentally send a perfectly good item to the landfill.
New to thrifting, or easily overwhelmed? Narrow your search to specific items. Check that handy note you made in your phone and start in the sections of the store that might have what you’re searching for. Giving yourself starting points or narrowing your search area can help make a sprawling shop feel less intimidating.
Scope out the store’s pricing. Many thrift stores offer daily deals on select categories or “colors” — think 50% off of all items with a yellow tag on Tuesdays. There is usually signage near the entrance explaining the discount system, and oftentimes someone announces the promotions over the speaker system. This means that the price listed on the tag for an item might not actually be what you pay at the register. For pricier items like heavy coats or furniture, it could be worth coming back on a discount day if you’re willing to accept the risk of something you’ve got your eye on being sold before you return.
Before You Buy Something:
Check for stains or damage. Pay special attention to the “hard no” stain spots — crotch and armpits. Crotch stains aren’t great for obvious reasons, and set-in armpit stains tend to be very stubborn and hard to remove due to the ingredients in most deodorants. Items with these types of flaws are great candidates for upcycling or for use as fabric. If you’ve got the skills and the vision, a pit-stained blouse could become a stain-free halter top.
Sniff check. Yep, go ahead and sniff that garment. Thrift stores tend to generally have a musty odor, so you might not realize how strongly an item smells until after you’ve taken it home. This especially applies to heavy items, porous fabrics, and pieces that are less frequently (or never) laundered, like coats, furs, leather, and shoes. Hopefully you’re wearing a mask — no need to pull it down! If you can’t smell anything weird through your mask, it’s probably fine.
Test any functional elements like buttons or zippers. Are they still there? Do they work? Do a stretch test on elastic to make sure it hasn’t gone stiff or crunchy. These things can usually be fixed or replaced, but it’s up to you to decide how much time/money/effort you’re willing to put in.
Check fabric contents. Natural fibers are generally more desirable, but that might not necessarily be what you like. Pay attention to the materials you’re most comfortable in, and take the time to learn how to properly care for your clothing. Both natural and synthetic fibers can last a lifetime if laundered and stored the right way. I personally wear lots of cotton, rayon, silk, acrylic, and polyester.
Understand your skills and limitations. A whole new world of vintage opens up when you know more about mending, alterations, upcycling, and cleaning, but all that extra effort isn’t for everyone! Knowing or learning how to sew means you can mend small imperfections yourself, but having the ability doesn’t mean you have the time or desire to actually do so. A good tailor or cobbler can do a lot for you, but only if you have the capacity and budget. The more often you tackle apparel fixes, the better understanding you’ll have of what’s necessary for each kind of repair or change. If you’re the type of person to build a “things to take to the tailor” bag that never actually gets taken to the tailor, don’t buy the top that needs a zipper replacement. If you aren’t handy or don’t know how to sew, I highly suggest learning! It’s a skill that’s super useful and rewarding and there are tons of excellent free tutorials online.
Have any questions about thrifting? Reach out to me on Instagram at @wear_st.evens, or email me at wearst.evens@gmail.com. Love shopping vintage, but don’t have the time, desire, or know-how to find it yourself in a thrift store? Shop a selection of carefully selected items at wearStEvens.com. No hunting, cleaning, mending, or researching necessary — I’ve already done it for you!
Editor: Anna Hou | Designer/Illustrator: Emma Geddes | Copy Editor: Katie Frankowicz | Communication/Support/Outreach: Meg Chellew
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